My Shop Truck, a.k.a. Pop's "Old Gray"

1994 Dodge 2500HD 4x4

360 cu in (5.9 L) Magnum V8 - 230 hp/325 lb.ft.
4-speed A518(46RH) Torqueflite Automatic Transmission
Dana 60's Front & Rear, 3.54F/3.55R
1.5" Rear Lift & 2.5" Front Leveling Kit
37x12.50r17 B.F. Goodrich All-Terrain T/A's
Mile Marker 12,000# Winch

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  Here is the truck as I picked it up from the farm.  It has 345,xxx miles on it and starts up every time you hit the key.  There is some noise in the front end, the tires are shoot, there is also an exhaust noise and some rust and body damage.  The AC is not currently working but had worked great in the past, likely a freon leak.  The AC controls is missing a couple of knobs as well.  The seats and floor covering as well as the headliner are toast.  The brake lights quite working, but the turn signals and 3rd brake light work.

  Pulled out the floor covering and old seats and shoveled the dirt out of the floor before installing a good set of seats, all though they are tan rather than gray.

  Picked up a set of new 17" steel wheels to mount the 37" BFG's I had on hand.  They fit the truck nicely with a little fender clearance issue at the rear of the front fenders when turning.

  To address the front end noise, steering issues and tire clearances I proceeded to install a 2.5" leveling kit as well as a set of RUKSE  Heavy Duty Adjustable Control Arms.  These control arms will allow me to move the axle forward to maintain the proper wheelbase/suspension component alignment with the leveling kit as we  as give be the fender clearance.  I also replaced the shocks and upper and lower ball joints as well as sway bar links and bushings.

  I've installed new brake pads, pistons and calipers as well as a complete brake system flush.  I've also replaced a leaking rear axle seal and started the body repairs.  The interior trim panels are all removed and cleaned and I'm awaiting some new fabric for the headliners and working speakers.

  Installed a new cover on the headliner and a new carpet.  I also cleaned all the interior trim panels and re-installed them along with new/additional speakers and an aftermarket radio.

  I recycled and repaired the Mile Marker 12K that was my Trailer Recovery Winch and installed it. Still a few finishing details, and it won't be completely installed until I pull the bumper for painting and add a weld or two on where I had to widen and extend the frame rails. Next comes the sanding, filling, sanding, repeat and finally paint.

  Since David had removed the old plastic bed protector that had been in the truck since it was new, I found the rust was a little worse than expected in some areas, and not as bad as was feared in others. So I cleaned and rust protected the Bed as well as lining it with Bed Liner (Raptor by U-Pol). I did sand the tailgate down to metal and re-prime it with Epoxy Primer.   2016-11-06

  After diagnosing and gutting the old electronics from the Mile Marker Winch control, leaving only the solenoids, I connected a Harbor Freight wireless controller to make it operable. I also found I had broke one of the terminal leads for the field in the motor and had to remove it and have it fixed. I was then able to finish connect and test the winch, and all works well. I also had to replace the Power Steering pump, as the one I'd installed earlier had started leaking. While I was at it it also got all new hoses. Changed the oil and filter now that it had 4K miles since the last change.  2016-11-07

  The 4WD CAD is now operatable from inside the Cab.  I added a manual vacuum valve to the inside of the cab to operate it.  Now I can have both 2WD and 4WD low range, oh and not have to crawl under the truck to engage/disengauge the axle.  You can also see the power switch to supply power to the front mounted winch.  With the help of some heat and a candle I was finally able to remove the old (now throwing codes) O2 Sensor and replace it.  2016-11-08

  I found that the sway bar link at ride height and front end compression was hitting the coil spring axle pocket. Now with the Sway bar drop kit installed thought that it was fixed, but it showed the real problem. I thought at first it was just the Moog Link Grease Zerk hitting the steering link, but even replacing it with a smaller zerk, that was not going to prevent the link and tie rod from hitting on compression and/or turns. So the solution? Remove the drop brackets I'd installed and return the sway bar back to it's stock location and flip the sway bar links to rotate the sway bar up and move the links away from any suspension/steering items. Now no more interference and they clear the tires/springs etc...  2016-11-11